tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-27284101170618574192023-11-15T15:33:27.340+00:00The Happy Garden CompanyEverything you need to know to make your garden a happy place from the experts at thehappygardencompany.co.uk
Tips, tricks advice, etc with a section for Q&A.The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-66134748462289024372010-06-06T14:53:00.001+01:002010-06-06T15:04:35.828+01:00All about Clematis<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/TAt9GoUvOnI/AAAAAAAAAH0/BSg65jEdYTQ/s1600/Clematis_516121+(Small).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/TAt9GoUvOnI/AAAAAAAAAH0/BSg65jEdYTQ/s320/Clematis_516121+(Small).jpg" /></a></div>The Clematis is a large family of hardy, deciduous and evergreen climbers. They are relatively easy to grow and maintain and can flourish in most places and can produce a variety of colours to add colour to your garden.<br />
The Clematis comes in a huge variety of species with hundreds of variations in colour, flower size, etc.<br />
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To ensure your Clematis produces flowers and a healthy foilage some simple steps can be taken.<br />
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<strong>Planting</strong><br />
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Plant in limey soil with plenty of leaf mould to keep the roots moist. Some people cover the base of the plants with broken pots, pebbles, decorative gravel or even small rooted plants such as heather to keep the sun from drying out the soil, which also helps keeps the roots moist.<br />
Ideally the plants should be kept in a sunny or partially shaded area.<br />
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Because the Clematis is a climbing species you will need to ensure that you provide some method of support for the vines to grow. This can be as simple as some canes, a wall, a trellis or even a tree. <br />
<ul><li>If planting near a tree ensure that you plant at the outer edge of the root system to allow the Clematis to grow up and around the tree.</li>
<li>If planting in a pot then place the supporting cane in the centre of the root system (be careful not to damge the roots as they can be extremely delicate, especially on young plants). Plant with the top edge of the root system being approx. 5cm below the top edge of the soil surface. Ideally the pots should not be plastic as the root system will get too hot in summer and too cold in winter. The pots should have a diameter of no less than 30cm and a height of 40cm minimum.</li>
<li>If planting against a wall place the root system approx. 40cm away from the wall to allow access to water. Insert a cane into the centre of the root system and angle the cane towards the wall.</li>
</ul>Some people add some form of tubing into the soil directed from the root system to the surface (be it in pots or the ground). This allows direct watering to the root system in dry conditions.<br />
When planting add some good quality compost to the soil (Cow dung or well rotted manure can also be used). Train the initial foilage around the target support (cane, tree, etc) and water well.<br />
The plant should initially be watered daily and fertilized weekly with a liquid fertilizer until the plant is aclimitized to the location.<br />
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<strong>Pruning</strong><br />
To prune or not to prune? Depending on what your goal is will depend on whether or not you need to prune the plant.<br />
If you are looking to make your plant quite bushy then during the first spring after planting, cut back all large-flowering hybrids to the lowest pair of buds, even those varieties that do not need pruning. If the plant continues up on one stem only, pinch out the growing tip once or twice during the summer. This will help to encourage bushy growth and minimise the risk of clematis wilt.<br />
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Many find the seed heads to be very attractive and leave them on until they mature and drop off naturally.<br />
Dead-heading young plants is usually good practice in order to help them establish.<br />
Clematis are typically categorised into 3 groups and each group can be treated slightly differently when pruning. These pruning suggestions are for established vines that have been in the ground for at least three years. Young vines should all be pruned to 12 inches in their second spring and to 18 inches in their third spring. It helps to develop more shoots, a fuller vine, and a better root system.<br />
<blockquote><strong>Group 1</strong> - This group contains species which bloom early in the year. These clematis will develop into very large specimen plants over time. All of the Group 1 clematis bloom on growth made the previous year. They can be pruned to keep them within their alotted space, or to remove dead and unsightly foliage. Note however, if they are pruned late in the season, or before they flower in the year, you will be cutting off potential flower buds. They should be pruned right after flowering, if at all. </blockquote><blockquote><strong>Group 2</strong> - These are the large flowered hybrids. They are often divided again into two subgroups - 2a and 2b. The main difference between the two subgroups is: those in 2a normally bloom in the spring and possibly again in the autumn; those in 2b bloom mainly in the spring then intermittently all through the summer. Subgroup 2b types usually continue to grow as well as bloom as the season progresses so in the spring you might have a mass of blooms at waist height and by autumn they may be blooming overhead. The flowers of both subgroups tend to be smaller later in the season and might be more intensely or differently colored as well. All of the clematis in Group 2 bloom on 'old wood' (actually on short shoots from old wood) and should not be pruned except for deadwood pruning in early spring after the leaf buds open slightly. Note that those in subgroup 2b also bloom on new wood. The number of later flowers can be increased if the seed heads from the first flowering are removed.</blockquote><blockquote><strong>Group 3</strong> - These are the summer blooming varieties that bloom on new wood and the late bloomers. Clematis in Group 3 mainly flower on new wood produced in the current year and should be pruned back severely every year in late winter, when they are completely dormant, to about 12 - 14 inches. Leave at least two pairs of buds (4) on each stem of the plant. Most Group 3s are very fast growing and will reach their full height before blooming every summer. If you fail to prune these, they will develop long 'legs' that get woody and will be devoid of foliage and blooms.</blockquote>It should be noted that with Group 2s and Group 3s you can vary both flowering height and flowering time by adjusting your pruning strategy. Since the above guidelines are based on gereral principles, once the principles are understood, you can alter your pruning to suit your needs. <br />
For example, if you have a type which you want to flower around a second story window pruning it down to 12-14 inches each year will mean that it can never reach the heights you intend. Instead, knowing that it will grow approximately 10-12 feet each year, you can prune it back to a point which will allow it to flower at the height you need. <br />
Also, if you are growing Group 3 types into a shrub or a tree, it is best to only prune them down to a branch that gives them an early start next spring. You would not want to prune them to 12 inches and put them into a very shady situation next spring. It will stunt them. <br />
You can also control flowering time by either pruning later so that flowers are produced later, or not pruning some of the vines so that you may get flowers earlier. By pruning those in Group 2b as if they were Group 3 type plants, you can get a bigger display of flowers later in the year. <br />
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Clematis are quite resilient plants, and you are unlikely to kill your plant by pruning it wrong. The worst damage that is likely to happen by incorrect or untimely pruning would be the loss of flowers for one year. <br />
It is a good idea to make a note and keep track of the name of any clematis you have or may buy so you can find out which pruning group it belongs to. The tag will usually tell you to either 'prune hard' or 'prune lightly'. <br />
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You may also see clematis listed as Group or Type A, B, or C. These letters correspond to Group 1, 2, and 3, respectively, as given above. <br />
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For a list of various species that fall into each of the above categories see also <a href="http://thehappygardencompany.blogspot.com/2010/06/clematis-groups.html">"Clematis Groups"</a><br />
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<strong>Problems with Clematis</strong><br />
With the Clematis being quite a hardy plant it is unlikely to suffer from any problems. Also as long as your plant is taken care of you are unlikely to suffer from any pest problems like to are on other plants.<br />
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The main problems that are encountered are as follows;<br />
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<blockquote><strong>Yellow Leaves -</strong> The main cause of this problem is if your Clematis isn't getting the correct level of water. If you are sure that your Clematis is getting enough water, then you may be suffering from a lack of magnesium. Some tomato fertilizers contain magnesium so the easiest way to combat this is to purchase some tomato fertilizer and follow the directions with your particluar purchase. If you cannot find a tomato fertilizer containing magnesium, which in general can also be an excellent choice for fertilizing clematis, an epsom salt solution is an alternative magnesium supplement. Again, special care should be taken when using these particular products and the instructions on the particular brand you purchase should be followed, reserving your own judgement on the response you see on your plant.</blockquote><br />
<blockquote><strong>Brown Leaves -</strong> Some browning of the lower leaves seems to be a normal occurrence with some cultivars of clematis and isn't anything in particular to cause worry. It usually happens in the summer after blooming time and is typically down to the heat. As long as you make sure that the plant is well watered and has a thick layer of organic mulch around its base to conserve moisture there is little more that can be done to prevent this. Just prune away the dead leaves and leave the vines alone. Many times the leaves can just be crushed and they will fall away. <br />
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Another type of browning leaves happens when the plant, or part of the plant, has suffered from 'wilt' and that portion has died. In this case the brown leaves extend to the growing tip and the vine becomes very brittle, almost black, and the axil buds are also brown or black. It takes some experience to determine whether this portion is dead. If the tip is bent and it snaps off cleanly, it is dead. Prune this down to either a living branch, live leaf axil, or to the base. The plant may be dormant for a period, but if kept well watered and fed you should see new growth shoot either later the same year, or the following year. </blockquote>The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-82515437400333717542010-05-24T19:38:00.000+01:002010-05-24T19:38:59.549+01:00The Childrens Garden<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_qiwlitL3I/AAAAAAAAAHQ/xKvceu62Xwg/s1600/Childrens+Garden+dreamstimefree_4855235.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="144" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_qiwlitL3I/AAAAAAAAAHQ/xKvceu62Xwg/s200/Childrens+Garden+dreamstimefree_4855235.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>What better way to encourage your child to take an interest in the garden by giving them their very own space in which to cultivate crops or vegetables, fruit and flowers.<br />
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If you have children then I'm sure you have all had the day when your child brings home a small pot of cress from school. From an early age children are given an insight in the natural world of nature.<br />
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It needs more than an out-of-the-way corner of the garden and a handful of left-over plants to encourage a child's interest in gardening, but it doesn't take much and is probably easier than you think.<br />
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However small the plot it must be well-drained and fertile to ensure maximum chance of success. It should also be in a prominent position, because children love to show off their gardens to visitors. The plants selected should be un-demanding, yet capable of producing worthwhile flowers or fruits. Even if space cannot be spared in exisiting beds, a tub or window-box, or even some large pots, should be sufficient.<br />
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Flowers may appear the obvious choice, yet children often prefer to grow vegetables, fruit or even herbs. The thought of something to eat as well as to watch growing is a great incentive. Most children also like to earn pocket money by selling a bunch of radishes, or a few sprigs of mint or sage.<br />
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<strong>Flowers</strong><br />
Where flowers are grown from seed, annuals are the best choice because they are inexpensive, give quick results and provide plenty of colour.<br />
Choose hardy annuals which can be sown where they are to flower. Suitable kinds include alyssum (coloured varieties as well as white), annual chrysanthemums, clarkia, candytuft, shirley poppies and nasturtiums. Half-hardy annuals such as ageratums, petunias and asters, or biennials such as pansies are best bought as plants.<br />
Bulbs are always a good choice as they seldom fail to give a colourful show. Daffodils, tulips, crocuses and lillies-of-the-valley can be grown in the border, in pots, in tubs or in window boxes. For indoors there is an interest in growing hyacinths in glass containers so that root development can be watched before the plants come into flower.<br />
Containers sold for this purpose are so shaped that the bulb rest on a narrow neck over the water reservoir, but any glass jar will serve providing the bulb is supported near the top. This can be done by filling the container almost to the top with pebbles, then filling it with water to just below the surface of the pebbles.<br />
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<strong>Vegetables & Fruits</strong><br />
Children love quick results so radishes, which germinate quickly and can be harvested in about three weeks, are always a popular choice. Lettuces, especially small varieties such as "Tom Thumb" are another good choice. Bush tomatoes, which so not require staking or removal of side shoots, give worthwhile results for a minimum of work. The same applies to runner and french beans and there is added interest to be gained by growing varieties with unusual colouring. Blue Coco, for instance has purple foliage and flowers and blue pods, the latter turning green when cooked. The easiest and fastest growing of all crops is mustard and cress, which reaches maturity within 2 weeks of sowing. Sow the mustard seeds approx 3 days after the cress.<br />
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Most fruit crops take too long to mature for interest to be sustained but a few strawberry plants or a gooseberry bush from which a child can pick their own fruits are worth while.<br />
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<strong>Herbs</strong><br />
Most herbs will grow in a variety of soils but do best in a south-facing plot sheltered from North and East winds. Easy herbs for kitchen use are mint, thyme, sage, marjoram and chives. Parsley is slow to germinate though undemanding once the seedlings appear.<br />
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<strong>Tubs, pots & window boxes</strong><br />
Bulbs are the best choice for spring, together with forget-me-nots and primroses. Annuals will give a colourful display during the summer.<br />
When growing annuals in a tub or pot it is best to stick to one kind only, perhaps with a foliage plant in the centre to provide contrast.<br />
When the annuals are finished, dwarf michaelmas daises give a lovely autumn display. Alternatively, dwarf dahlia will last until the frosts come. Neither of these plants are demanding and will grow will little intervention.<br />
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Enjoy gardening an I hope you manage to pass your interest into the younger generations.The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-26486424713225025002010-05-24T12:22:00.000+01:002010-05-24T12:22:15.884+01:00Hollow-tine your lawn<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pfRawTzZI/AAAAAAAAAHE/R9YTKO_PvMw/s1600/Hollow%2520Tine%2520Aerator.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pfRawTzZI/AAAAAAAAAHE/R9YTKO_PvMw/s200/Hollow%2520Tine%2520Aerator.jpg" width="132" /></a></div>Hollow tining is the practice of sinking a hollow steel tine into your grass surface and removing the plug of grass and soil. This will then be deposited temporarily on the surface. This is then removed and topdressing is spread and worked in.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Hollow-tining creates aeration, which is the most effective way of reducing sub-surface thatch and soil compaction (usually found on clay soils). This operation of the removal of thousands of cores, each about the size of a man’s little finger, from the lawn is usually carried out towards the end of the year in Ocober.<br />
You should be aiming to get down at least 3” and preferably 4” or 5” although you may require a machine to achieve those depths.The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-53371177715036327342010-05-24T12:06:00.000+01:002010-05-24T12:06:50.876+01:00Dollar Spot lawn disease<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pczDbkJYI/AAAAAAAAAG4/3bvIAuCaVxE/s1600/Dollar+Spot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="132" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pczDbkJYI/AAAAAAAAAG4/3bvIAuCaVxE/s200/Dollar+Spot.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>With the right lawn care program dollar spot should not be a problem and it is more often or not the result of a neglected lawn. Dollar spot is a serious lawn disease as it can effect and kill the whole of the grass plant including the roots. This means that affected areas of the lawn will often need reseeding. Dollar spot will infect a large number of different grass varieties.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><strong>Dollar spot symptoms</strong>As its name suggests Dollar Spot is a lawn disease that results in silver / grey spots appearing on your lawn. These spots can vary from 1 to 6 inches in diameter and the spots can also overlap to form larger patches of diseased lawn.<br />
The fungus that causes dollar spot will result in the grass blades having tell tale tan coloured legions with red / brown edges that have an hour glass shape.<br />
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<strong>Dollar spot causes</strong><br />
Dollar spot is caused by a fungus. The fungus survives over winter by taking hold on plant matter that appears in the layer of thatch that occurs in the lawn, it also inhabits plant matter in the soil. In winter time the fungus is not actively growing but when the warmer temperatures (70-90° F) are reached in spring the fungus will start growing and spreading.<br />
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So what are the environmental conditions that are ideal for growth of the fungus and therefore the source of the cause of dollar spot?<br />
Lack of soil moisture - dollar spot will thrive in lawns which aren't watered properly. A low soil moisture content will help dollar spot continue its advance. <br />
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Lack of Nitrogen - lawns require Nitrogen for leaf growth and a lawn that has adequate nitrogen levels in it will be more vigorous and resistant to disease. <br />
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High levels of thatch - prevent water penetrating into the soil and provide good conditions for the disease to survive over winter. <br />
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Another contributing factor to the onset of dollar spot is mowing the grass to too short a length in dry periods when there are slow rates of grass growth. The lawn is more at risk from disease and weed infestation at these times.<br />
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The disease is spread across the lawn by foot and vehicle traffic, watering, rain and dew.<br />
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<strong>Treatment of dollar spot</strong><br />
As with nearly all lawn diseases prevention is better than the cure and if you follow a good <a href="http://thehappygardencompany.blogspot.com/2010/05/lawn-care-calendar.html">lawn care programme</a> then you should not be bothered by this problem. <br />
Watering the lawn at the correct intervals is one of the keys to preventing dollar spot as it will help the soil retain moisture. Remember it is best to water thoroughly at intermediate intervals rather than watering sparingly at short intervals.<br />
You should aim to water the lawn in the morning as the grass should be dry before nightfall so that optimum conditions for fungus growth are avoided. Dispersal via water is one of the ways that the disease travels across a lawn so watering should be done with care.<br />
Removing / reducing the layer of thatch will help water penetrate the lawn and reach the soil. Use a lawn scarifier every autumn to dethatch the lawn.<br />
Ensure your lawn has adequate nitrogen levels by applying a suitable lawn fertiliser at the correct intervals.<br />
As a last resort Fungicides are available for the treatment of dollar spot.<br />
Because dollar spot can kill the whole of the grass plant you may need to reseed areas of the lawn even if you have eradicated the dollar spot.The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-12264232237859531112010-05-24T11:58:00.001+01:002010-05-24T13:35:45.899+01:00Red Thread Disease of Lawns - Corticium<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pbVSu3OiI/AAAAAAAAAGw/OcdYD6jKjFA/s1600/Red+Thread+Disease+of+Lawns+-+Corticium.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="145" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pbVSu3OiI/AAAAAAAAAGw/OcdYD6jKjFA/s200/Red+Thread+Disease+of+Lawns+-+Corticium.gif" width="200" /></a></div>Red Thread normally attacks lawns made of fine grasses such as the Fescues, and some Ryegrasses. It is more likely on turf that is rarely - if ever - fed! Again we are back to a good maintenance regime to prevent this particular disease.<br />
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It is usually a problem on such lawns in the year following a hot, dry summer. In the late autumn months, look for patches of bleached out grass which will have small red or pink rigid growths in moist weather conditions. The areas start as small as 1 in across - soon spreading.<br />
In the growing season, Red Thread disease can be kept under control - even eradicated - by a good feeding regime for the lawn. This will strengthen the grasses and help a lot in negating the Red Thread disease.<br />
After feeding, the affected areas often turn into straw-like grasses. These will soon be removed by normal mowing.<br />
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<strong>Prevention and Control of Red Thread Disease.</strong><br />
At first signs treat with Carbendazim Lawn fungicide. Follow this up in the spring with a high Nitrogen lawn Fertilizer - NOT in the autumn. However, spiking and top-dressing can/should take place in the autumn. Care for your fine grass lawn and it will rarely if ever be a problem.<br />
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Regular feeding and lawncare go a long way in combating Red Thread Disease in lawns.The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-89695459478822740352010-05-24T11:45:00.002+01:002010-05-24T13:35:05.049+01:00Leather Jackets<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pYTY4K3LI/AAAAAAAAAGo/dPBEZbLF6HQ/s1600/leatherjacket_larvae.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pYTY4K3LI/AAAAAAAAAGo/dPBEZbLF6HQ/s200/leatherjacket_larvae.jpg" width="131" /></a></div>Leatherjackets are the larvae grubs of the Crane Fly (Daddy Longlegs.) Leatherjackets in lawns are a real pest and can have severe consequences unless killed. They are a pest of the lawn, for they eat the roots of the grass plants causing the grass to die. A small infestation is nothing to worry about, however if you have a lawn full of leatherjackets then the effect can be quite dramatic. In worse cases, resulting in much of the lawn dying and needing substantial remedial treatment.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>First signs of a leatherjacket attack are during the spring and summer, when small brown patches appear in the grass. This is the result of the grubs feeding upon the roots of the grass. The severity of the problem is dependent upon the number of leatherjackets, and can start as just a few small patches a few inches across – hardly noticeable in an average lawn. <br />
Other signs of leatherjackets in lawns will be birds – mainly starlings – pecking at the lawn to get at the grubs. The birds also do a good job of aerating the lawn, for their beaks can penetrate several inches. It does no damage to the lawn.<br />
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<strong>Control of Leatherjackets.</strong><br />
There is a biological control by name of Nemasys. This control method - nematodes – is applied in Autumn whilst the soil temperature is still warm. The microscopic nematodes then seek out the leatherjacket grubs ‘invade’ them and destroy them from the inside!<br />
Until recently there was no chemical treatment. However Provado Lawn Grub killer – kills Leatherjackets and also chafer grubs in the lawn is now available from most good garden centres. Again, this should be applied in the autumn.The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-86651474463834000752010-05-24T11:37:00.002+01:002010-05-24T11:41:21.530+01:00Fusarium patch disease<div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pVGUm_vWI/AAAAAAAAAGg/CEqU1vxn7DM/s1600/fusarium-patch-disease.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="155" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pVGUm_vWI/AAAAAAAAAGg/CEqU1vxn7DM/s200/fusarium-patch-disease.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><strong>What is Fusarium patch disease?</strong> <br />
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Fusarium patch disease is the most common disease of turf in the UK. <br />
The Latin name of the fungus that causes the disease symptoms is Microdochium nivale but in the past its Latin name was Fusarium nivale, hence its common name.<br />
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Fusarium patch disease looks like irregularly shaped orange-brown areas of turf a few centimetres in diameter develop, sometimes with a white or pink fluffy fungal growth around the edge of the patch. <br />
Over a period of weeks these die back and can create areas of bare ground. These gradually recover naturally if weather and soil conditions are warm enough. <br />
However, if the disease occurs in the autumn, the conditions may not be suitable for recovery until the following spring. <br />
The disease can occur throughout the year, but is most damaging in autumn/winter because the turf is not growing fast enough to recover quickly. <br />
The symptoms can become worse if snow falls on infected turf. The layer of snow insulates the disease fungus from the cold and allows it to grow beneath the snow, when it becomes known as snow mould, and more extensive damage can occur. <br />
In most cases, the diseased area will completely recover once the grass is actively growing again. <br />
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<strong>When is Fusarium likely to appear?</strong> <br />
Whenever the weather is very still and humid and the grass stays wet for most of the day, Fusarium patches are likely to develop. <br />
Fusarium is rarely a problem in the summer but is very common at other times of year under these weather conditions. The fungus grows in the water film on the grass leaf and that is why heavy dews and still air favour its spread. <br />
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<strong>How can I avoid it developing in my lawn?</strong> <br />
Avoid over-feeding. Avoid damp, shady locations with still stagnant air for laying turf. In order to keep the lawn surface dry, mow regularly to prevent the leaves of the grass becoming too long. Air movement dries the lawn surface, making conditions less suitable for growth of fungal diseases. <br />
The condition of the soil under the turf is very important in defending against disease attack. A well-structured, free-draining soil will help produce healthy turf. <br />
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Information provided by: <a href="http://www.inturf.com/">http://www.inturf.com/</a>The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-64405308331245955502010-05-24T11:28:00.005+01:002010-05-24T12:22:58.073+01:00Lawn Care Calendar<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pHJcF84LI/AAAAAAAAAGU/g2ZgkJiVV58/s1600/lawns.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="121" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_pHJcF84LI/AAAAAAAAAGU/g2ZgkJiVV58/s200/lawns.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Most people like the idea of having a beautiful lawn in there garden but few people actually understand the fundamental basics on how to acheive the best results.<br />
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There are many attributes to obtaining a "perfect" lawn and the timing on certain tasks can vary depending on the area you live. Below is a simple guide that will set you on your way to acheiving a better lawn.<br />
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<strong>March</strong><br />
This time of year is when the grass calendar will start. At some point during this month you will start to notice that your lawn has started to grow again after the winter period is coming to an end.<br />
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New Lawns<br />
For new lawns this is the time to rake and treat the seed bad and applying pre-seeding fertilizer. Choose suitable seed mixture and sow it at 1-2 oz, per square yard.<br />
Watch for sysmptoms of damping-off and mow the grass when its approx 3" high.<br />
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Established Lawns<br />
For the established lawn its now time to make the first cut which will help with the health of the lawn. <br />
Firstly rake up any leaves or debris from the lawn that has fallen over winter. The first cut should take place as soon as the grass has grown to approx 2.5" - 3" tall but you should have the mower set on a setting whereby the grass is cut to approx 2" - 1" high.<br />
Check the edges of your lawn and repair any that have crumbled or started to over-grow around your borders.<br />
To assist in the growth of the grass apply some Weed & Feed (following the instructions closely that are supplied).<br />
After a couple of weeks you will start to see some blackened areas where the weeds have died so now is the time to aerate the lawn by raking out the dead weeds, thatch and moss. To also help aeration spike the lawn with a garden fork or aerator tool. This process also helps with the drainage of the lawn.<br />
Watch out for <a href="http://thehappygardencompany.blogspot.com/2010/05/fusarium-patch-disease.html">fusarium patch disease</a> and treat with mercury fungicide.<br />
If you suffer from a substantial amount of moss, as well as following the above aeration techniques you can also apply mercurised moss compounds.<br />
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<strong>April</strong><br />
This time of year the lawn is starting to grow continously and its this time of year that you need to keep on top of any problems to ensure the grass is in good health for the coming year.<br />
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New Lawns<br />
Mow twice a week if necassary and use a roller to firm the seedlings if required.<br />
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Established Lawns<br />
Mow, aerate, apply spring fertilizer and scarify.<br />
Continue mowing frequently, lowering the blades at each successive cut, down to a minimun of 0.5".<br />
Level out any humps and fill in any hollows. Treat <a href="http://thehappygardencompany.blogspot.com/2010/05/fusarium-patch-disease.html">fusarium patch</a> if present. Apply selective weedkillers and mercurised moss compounds.<br />
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<strong>May</strong><br />
New Lawns<br />
Cultivate new sites for autumn sowing and leave rough during the summer.<br />
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Established Lawns<br />
Apply sulphate of ammonia. Continue regular mowing. Apply fungicides for disease control. Continue to apply weedkiller.<br />
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<strong>June</strong><br />
Established Lawns<br />
Continue mowing, raising blades during very dry weather. Spike the lawn to allow water to penetrate. Apply fungicides for control of <a href="http://thehappygardencompany.blogspot.com/2010/05/dollar-spot-lawn-disease.html">dollar spot</a> and <a href="http://thehappygardencompany.blogspot.com/2010/05/red-thread-disease-of-lawns-corticium.html">corticium</a>. Treat with weedkillers if necessary.<br />
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<strong>July</strong><br />
New and Established Lawns<br />
Water copiously in dry weather. Aerate surface of lawn. Apply fungicides to control <a href="http://thehappygardencompany.blogspot.com/2010/05/fusarium-patch-disease.html">fusarium</a>, <a href="http://thehappygardencompany.blogspot.com/2010/05/dollar-spot-lawn-disease.html">dollar spot</a> and <a href="http://thehappygardencompany.blogspot.com/2010/05/red-thread-disease-of-lawns-corticium.html">corticium</a>.<br />
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<strong>August</strong><br />
New Lawns<br />
Apply top dressings to sites for new lawns. A week after this sow grass seed.<br />
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Established Lawns<br />
Inspect and decide which areas need renovation (if any). Continue applying weedkillers and fungicides as necassary.<br />
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<strong>September</strong><br />
New Lawns<br />
Aerate, apply sharp sand, compost and scarify to remove debris. Apply autumn fertilizer. Control weeds, fungal infections and moss.<br />
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<strong>October</strong><br />
New Lawns<br />
Mow when grass is 3" high. Roll to firm seedlings if loose.<br />
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Established lawns<br />
Remedy defective drainage and lay new drains if necassary. Aerate, scarify, <a href="http://thehappygardencompany.blogspot.com/2010/05/hollow-tine-your-lawn.html">hollow-tine</a> and treat with autumn fertilizer.<br />
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Turfing<br />
Prepare weed-free turf bed, allow to settle and rake in fertilizer.<br />
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<strong>November</strong><br />
Complete laying turf. Continue drainage operations. Apply autumn fertilizer. Make final cut and bring in mowing machines for overhaul in preperation for winter storage.<br />
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<strong>December</strong><br />
Dig over areas to be seeded in the spring. Treat against <a href="http://thehappygardencompany.blogspot.com/2010/05/leather-jackets.html">leatherjackets</a>. <br />
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<strong>January</strong><br />
Check drainage outlets. Prepare top dressings for spring use. Continue areation treatment. Lay turves in favourable weather.<br />
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<strong>February</strong><br />
New Lawns<br />
Continue preparing spring bed seeds.<br />
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Established Lawns<br />
Aerate and scarify in dry conditions. Apply worm-killing preperations and lawn sand. Treat moss with mercurised compounds.The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-64740588031939360712010-05-21T10:46:00.001+01:002010-05-24T16:21:16.969+01:00Growing Strawberries<div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_ZUPEVL_OI/AAAAAAAAAFk/aNnCDLyLMJA/s1600/strawberries.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_ZUPEVL_OI/AAAAAAAAAFk/aNnCDLyLMJA/s200/strawberries.jpg" width="188" /></a></div>Strawberries are one of the easiest fruits to grow and will produce a good crop of fruit year after year with very little effort.<br />
To ensure you have sufficient plants to pick enough fruit for the needs of a family of four over the summer, plant around 100 plants in a strawberry bed.<br />
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The following steps will help ensure you maximise your fruit.<br />
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<strong>Step 1.</strong><br />
Begin with freshly rooted plants and don't keep plants for more than three years. Renew a third of the bed each year for the best productivity.<br />
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<strong>Step 2.</strong><br />
Ideally plant in early autumn; If not, in late summer or spring. <br />
Dig a hole large enough so that the roots can spread outwards and downwards.<br />
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<strong>Step 3.</strong><br />
Stop the crowns from rotting in winter by planting level with the soil. Keep them well watered and free from weeds, but don't waterlog the soil.<br />
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<strong>Step 4.</strong><br />
Place straw or matting around the plants as they begin to flower to encourage root growth, supress weeds and keep fruits off the ground.<br />
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<strong>Step 5.</strong><br />
Tp protect the crop from birds or squirrels you will need a fruit cage, or spread small meshed garden netting over a suitable frame to cover plants.<br />
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Alternatively the strawberries can be grown in hanging baskets - this method helps keep pests such as slugs away from the fruit.<br />
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<strong>Tip: </strong>Once the crop has produced fruit the plants will start to shoot off runners - these can be cropped and re-potted into baskets, plant pots, etc and grown ready for new plants.The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-64890200255907808282010-05-21T10:34:00.002+01:002010-05-24T16:20:49.984+01:00Plant and Grown Apples<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_ZSC42LbUI/AAAAAAAAAFY/3vue8Pe29CE/s1600/apples.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_ZSC42LbUI/AAAAAAAAAFY/3vue8Pe29CE/s200/apples.jpg" width="200" /></a>Apples are the most popular orchard fruit. They suit the British climate and although they prefer rich, moist, well-drained soil, they still manage to crop well even in poor conditions.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Follow these simple steps in order to produce some wonderful apples.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><strong>Step 1.</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Apples are easily grown on dwarf stock in large pots and special varieties have been developed that need very little pruning.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><strong>Step2.</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For beauty and productivity in small gardens, apples are best grown as espaliers as they benefit from the protection of a warm fence or wall.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><strong>Step3.</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Weel-established trees in containers can be planted at any time of the year if the roots aren't damaged or the surrounding soil disturbed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><strong>Step4.</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There are no special planting requirements except that the graft (the distinctive swelling on the stem) is not planted beneath the soil.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><strong>Step 5.</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With no other special planting requirments, water generously to help tress establish and make good growth, add a heavy mulch.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Happy eating and remember - An apple a day helps keep the doctor away!</div>The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-40955035906228607942010-05-19T14:40:00.002+01:002010-05-24T16:20:32.412+01:00Plant and Grow Onions<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_PqjStXRCI/AAAAAAAAAE4/Qv5Y5_tkSUY/s1600/onions.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5472975864223712290" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_PqjStXRCI/AAAAAAAAAE4/Qv5Y5_tkSUY/s320/onions.jpg" style="cursor: hand; float: left; height: 216px; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 250px;" /></a> Many recipes make use of onions, shallots or garlic. You can easily store these indispensable vegatables for future use.<br />
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Onions of ordinary size and quality can be grown in most soils.<br />
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<strong>Step 1.</strong><br />
As onions need good drainage, the texture of the soil is important.<br />
Before planting, dig in well-rotted manure and sand or grit.<br />
Add general fertiliser.<br />
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<strong>Step 2.</strong><br />
Plant onion sets 10cm apart from late winter to mid-spring, when the ground is workable.<br />
Push gently into the soil until just the tips of the onions are showing.<br />
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<strong>Step 3.</strong><br />
Plant easy-to-grow shallots 15cm apart from late winter to early spring.<br />
Press the bulbs firmly into the soil until they are half covered.<br />
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<strong>Step 4.</strong><br />
Garlic likes the sun and fairly rich ground.<br />
Plant the bulbs vertically, 10cm apart, in late autumn or early spring to the depth of the bulb.<br />
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<strong>Step 5.</strong><br />
When onion, shallot and garlic leaves turn yellow, lift the bulbs and spread them to dry in a cool dry place, or plait withered leaves together with string.The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-12240815127100508252010-05-19T14:27:00.004+01:002010-05-25T19:02:50.571+01:00Plant and Grow Potatoes<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_Pn9ZmyFsI/AAAAAAAAAEw/4_KBWjb4rek/s1600/russet_potatoes.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5472973014216873666" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/S_Pn9ZmyFsI/AAAAAAAAAEw/4_KBWjb4rek/s320/russet_potatoes.jpg" style="cursor: hand; float: left; height: 213px; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 320px;" /></a>Potatoes are an excellent crop for a new or neglected garden as the root system breaks up the soil and improves its structure. <br />
<div></div><div></div><div>There are actually only a few soils in which potatoes won't grow reasonably well.</div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong>Step 1.</strong></div><div>Prepare the soil by digging plently of organic matter into open, frost-free ground, to a depth of 60cm. (Crops will be poor in shaded areas).</div><div></div><div><strong>Step 2.</strong></div><div>In a light but not sunny room, set out the seed potatoes, eyes uppermost, in trays or egg boxes to chit (sprout). In six weeks they will develop 2cm sprouts.</div><div></div><div><strong>Step 3.</strong></div><div>Plant seed potatoes upright, with shoots at top, 30cm apart with 60cm between rows 15cm deep. Take care not to damage the fragile shoots.</div><div></div><div><strong>Step 4.</strong></div><div>Potatotes need constant "earthing up" to protect them from late frost and to prevent tubers that are too near to the surface turning green and toxic.</div><div></div><div><strong>Step 5.</strong></div><div>As an alternative, and for easier harvesting, you can earth up with straw. Potatoes and ready to dig up when they are the size of a hen's egg.<br />
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<span style="color: #f3f3f3;">T4S5YGW9JXX3 </span></div>The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2728410117061857419.post-90541011502341646852010-04-04T14:52:00.000+01:002010-06-06T14:54:45.048+01:00Clematis Groups<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/TAukyldJA6I/AAAAAAAAAIA/Wy5AqkNspyw/s1600/Clematis_516121+(Small).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xgf23dkHino/TAukyldJA6I/AAAAAAAAAIA/Wy5AqkNspyw/s200/Clematis_516121+(Small).jpg" width="200" /></a></div>With there being many hundreds of varieties of Clematis identifying the particular species you own can sometimes be a difficult or even an impossible task.<br />
It is however relatively easy to identify which particular category your species falls into in order to understand the best care techniques for your particular plant.<br />
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<strong>Group 1</strong> includes those that bloom in the late spring or early summer and that flower on the previous season’s mature wood (last years stems). <br />
<blockquote>Varieties include: Clematis alpina, Clematis armandii, Clematis x cartmanii, Clematis chrysocoma, Clematis cirrhosa, Clematis gracilifolia, Clematis indivisa, Clematis koreana, Clematis macropetala, Clematis montana, Pruinina, RoseO'Grady, White Swan </blockquote><br />
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<strong>Group 2</strong> includes the early-summer, large-flowered cultivars that bloom on new shoots growing from the previous year’s growth.<br />
<blockquote>Varieties include: andromeda, haku-okan, multi blue, artic queen, h.e. young, myojo, asao, henryi, nelly moser, barbara dibley, horn of plenty, niobe, barbara jackman, jackmanii alba, peveril pearl, beauty of richmond, jackmanii rubra, pink fantasy, beauty of worcester, james mason, pohjanael, bees jubilee, joan picton, prins hendrik, belle nantaise, john paul ii, proteus, blue ravine, john warren, ramona, bracebridge star, kathleen dunford, richard pennell, burma star, kathleen wheeler, rouge cardinal, chalcedony, keith richardson, royal velvet, cardinal wyszynski, kiri te kanawa, royalty, carnaby, lady caroline nevill, ruby glow, carnival queen, lady londesborough, scartho gem, charissma, lady northcliffe, sealand gem, corona, lasurstern, serenata, countess of lovelace, liberation, silver moon, crimson king, lincoln star, snow queen, daniel doronda, lord nevill, sugar candy, dawn, louise rowe, sunset, dr. ruppel, marcel moser, sylvia denny, duchess of edinburgh, marie boisselot, the president, duchess of sutherland, masquerade, the vagabond</blockquote><strong>Group 3</strong> is a very diverse group of clematis that all bloom on current year’s shoots during the summer and into the autumn.<br />
<blockquote>Varieties include: clematis addisonii, clematis viticella, john huxtable, clematis aethusifolia, abundance, kermesina, clematis x aromatica, alba luxurians, lady betty balfour, clematis x bonstedtii, arabella, lady bird johnson, clematis campaniflora, ascotiensis, madame edouard andre, clematis crispa, betty corning, madame julia correvon, clematis x durandii, bill mackenzie, madame grange, clematis x eriostemon, black prince, margaret hunt, clematis flammula, blue angel, margot koster, clematis fusca, blue boy, minuet, clematis heracleifolia, comtesse de bouchaud, pagoda, clematis hirsutissima, duchess of albany, paul farges, clematis integrifolia, dorothy walton, perle d'azur, clematis x jouiniana, elvan, perrin's pride, clematis ladakhiana, ernest markham, pink fantasy, clematis potataninii, etoile rose, polish spirit, clematis recta, etoile violette, prince charles, clematis rehderiana, gipsy queen, princess dianna, clematis serratifolia, gravetye beauty, rhapsody, clematis songarica, guiding star, rouge cardinal, clematis tangutica, hagley hybrid, royal velours, clematis texensis, huldine, venosa violacea, clematis tibetana, jackmanii, victoria, clematis x triternata, jackmanii superba, ville de lyon</blockquote>The Clematis are obviously easier to identify once they are in full bloom.<br />
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Below are a few links that may help you identify your specific type or you could post a comment in our forum for one of our team or another reader to help with.<br />
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For all you Montana type varieties this is an excellent site with photgraphs of various pictures to browse through - <a href="http://www.clematismontana.co.uk/gallery_flowers-buds06.html">http://www.clematismontana.co.uk/gallery_flowers-buds06.html</a><br />
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There are also many books available that have illustrated images of most known varieties of Clematis.The Happy Garden Companyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03540513922644444577noreply@blogger.com0